Filoscio Napoletano: The Omelette of the King (Story and Recipe)
Twelve eggs, a mountain of mozzarella, ham, and one very big pan. Today at Segreto I made the Mega Filoscio, the omelette of the king, the king of Napoli. And I dedicated it to my maestro, Luciano Sorbillo from Napoli, who I am sure was watching me and laughing. Ciao Maestro!
If you came here from our video: yes, the recipe is right below. But first, a little story, because in Naples every dish has one.
What is a filoscio?
The filoscio (say fee-LOH-sho) is the Neapolitan omelette. Not a frittata: in a frittata the filling is mixed into the eggs and cooked flat, while in a filoscio the eggs are cooked as a thin golden sheet and then folded around the filling, like a big soft envelope. Inside you find the two treasures of every Neapolitan kitchen: eggs and mozzarella.
The name tells you what happens when you cut it. Italian food writers trace it to the French word filoche, from fil, the thread. And that is exactly the point: when you lift a slice, the melted mozzarella pulls into long, never-ending threads. In Naples we call it fare il filo.
The French accent is no accident. For a long time Naples was a royal capital, and French cooking passed through the kitchens of the city: the story goes that the Neapolitans took the elegant French omelette and made it their own, cooked in olive oil, folded instead of rolled, and filled generously with mozzarella. A royal dish made with what every family had at home. That is why I call it the omelette of the king.
The dinner saver of every Neapolitan home
At home in Naples the filoscio is a piatto salvacena, the dish that saves dinner. Nothing in the fridge? Eggs, a ball of fior di latte, maybe a slice of ham, ten minutes, and the whole family is happy. The classic is in bianco, just eggs and mozzarella. Some families add ham, some use smoked provola, and some finish it in a little tomato sauce. There is no single right way, only your nonna's way.
Today I made it the Segreto way: big, generous and made to share, with ham, mozzarella, fresh herbs and cherry tomatoes. Exactly like we eat at the chef's table: everybody around the same plate.
Filoscio napoletano recipe
Serves 2 (classic). For my Mega Filoscio for 6, multiply everything by 3 and use a very large pan.
Ingredients
4 eggs, at room temperature
150 g mozzarella fior di latte (or buffalo mozzarella), well drained
60 g cooked ham, sliced
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano Reggiano
A small handful of parsley or basil, chopped
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper
To serve (optional): a handful of cherry tomatoes, quickly sautéed in olive oil with a pinch of salt
Method
Dry the mozzarella. Cut it into slices or cubes and let it drain in a colander for at least 30 minutes, then pat it dry. Wet mozzarella makes a watery filoscio.
Beat the eggs. Whisk the eggs with the Parmigiano, the herbs, a little pepper and just a pinch of salt (the ham and the cheese are already salty). Beat only until combined.
Cook the sheet. Heat the olive oil in a wide non-stick pan over medium heat. Pour in the eggs and tilt the pan so they cover the bottom in a thin, even layer. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until the edges are set and golden and the top is still a little soft.
Fill one half. Lay the ham and the mozzarella over one half of the omelette.
Fold and melt. Fold the other half over the filling like a book. Lower the heat, cover with a lid and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the mozzarella melts inside.
Serve right away. Slide it onto a wooden board, add the sautéed cherry tomatoes around it, cut it at the table and lift: here comes the filo!
Chef's tips
Medium heat, always. You want a golden outside, not a burnt one, and a creamy inside.
Go big? For a 12-egg Mega Filoscio use the widest pan you have, and flip it onto a board with confidence. One move, no fear.
Variations: smoked provola instead of mozzarella, no ham for the classic in bianco version, or finish it for two minutes in a light tomato sauce.
Alto livello. Forget about it.
That was the verdict at the table today. Try it at home, tag us on Instagram @segretoexclusiveitalian, and if you want to taste the real thing, come to Segreto: a party-style Italian chef's table on Sukhumvit 26, where I cook live in front of you. Up to 22 guests, bookings only.
Chef Ermanno Lelli, Segreto Exclusive Italian, 62/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Bangkok.
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